Progress update on the designer research project: Tom Ford is not “all talk”, as I assumed before. This documentary gives such an insightful glimpse into his mind. I can’t recommend this enough. He is very honest and shameless. I especially like what he discussed about “windows” of life when you can be relevant and that he accepts that nothing lasts forever. Sad but true, and beautifully spoken. Just drop what you’re doing, get some tea, and watch this.
Grès, working earlier as Alix, created dresses in shafts of fabric, the diverse fluting of which served on the body like the entasis of a classical column. Seaming together fabric vertically so as to be continuous from hem to neckline, Grès pleated and tucked the materials into a shaping suitable to the body: the same fabric is buoyant and fluid when release-pleated from the waist down. She simulated a waist seam by tight tucking that continues through the bodice, and crowned the dress with volutes and twists. This tour-de-force of material rendered in diverse ways accounts for the tempered ergonomics of such dresses. Their wearers have testified that they felt secure and not immodest in these dresses, so organic was their creation. In this example, only one piece of fabric was added to the column: a small triangle was inserted under the arm to complete the structure, but otherwise the entire dress is conceived as one cylinder.